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The Cartier Panthère collection is the epitome of luxurious jewelry watch design, even becoming an icon during its rise to success in the 80s and 90s. The most fashionable men and women of that era were often seen with a Cartier Panthère timepiece on their wrist, including celebrities Tina Turner, Madonna, and Pierce Brosnan. Despite a brief discontinuation in 2004, it remained one of the brand’s most sought-after timepieces. Cartier resurrected the collection in 2017 in grand fashion, featuring several exquisite finishes, 2 case sizes, and even a stunning limited edition example decorated in a panther motif.
Today, the iconic Cartier Panthère remains a fixture on the wrists of some of the world’s most chic and influential celebrities and figures. It is distinguished by a square-shaped case, Roman numerals on the dial, and a silky, 5-link Panthère bracelet. The collection is now available in three case sizes, with plain or gem-set bezels and bracelets, and five metal finishes, including yellow gold, white gold, rose gold, stainless steel, and two-tone.
The Panthère collection is not the first time Cartier has been associated with the panther. That connection dates to 1914 and Louis Cartier’s relationship with Jeanne Toussaint, who was a noted fashion icon and whom he referred to as “La Panthère.” Louis Cartier commissioned celebrated French illustrator George Barbier to create artwork for the brand, including an image of a panther and a woman. The first Panthère wristwatch was released shortly after featuring diamonds and black onyx gems, and the striking animal has been a cornerstone of the brand’s image ever since.
The Panthère wristwatch first became available commercially in 1983. It featured several case sizes, including mini, small, medium, and large, and was presented on the Panthère’s signature mesh bracelet. It also initially included either gold or two-tone options with stainless steel introduced in ’91. The series was discontinued from 2004 to 2017, after which the Cartier Panthère made its triumphant return featuring similar design codes as the original generation. The case still features the collection’s signature screw-down bezel, a crown adorned with a sapphire cabochon, and the Panthère mesh link bracelet. Only now, the case is available in several more metal finishes and three case sizes instead of four: mini, small, and medium.
The Cartier brand has long been associated with a level of exclusivity and luxury. With that prestige comes a top-tier price tag for many of the brand’s offerings. The Cartier Panthère is available in a handful of precious metal finishes, averaging in price between $18,000 - $40,000 at retail and $15,000 - $25,000 pre-owned, depending on the feature set. More extravagant examples dripping in diamonds exceed well over $100k retail.
However, Stainless steel and two-tone examples offer a significant price break without sacrificing the luxurious styling that many associate with the famed Cartier Panthère. At retail, stainless steel options range between $3,200 - $9,600. Those prices are slightly lower on the pre-owned level, ranging between $3,500 - $8,500. Two-tone options pairing steel with gold cost $8,000 - $13,500 retail and about $6,500 - $13,000 used.
| Reference | Material | Size | Features | Retail Price | Used Price |
| WSPN0019 | Stainless Steel | 21mm | Plain Bezel | $3,200 | $3,400 |
| WSPN0006 | Stainless Steel | 22mm | Plain Bezel | $3,950 | $3,800 |
| W4PN0007 | Stainless Steel | 22mm | Diamond Bezel | $8,350 | $7,500 |
| WSPN0007 | Stainless Steel | 27mm | Plain Bezel | $5,000 | $4,400 |
| W4PN0008 | Stainless Steel | 27mm | Diamond Bezel | $9,600 | $8,500 |
| W2PN0006 | Steel & Gold | 22mm | Plain Bezel | $8,000 | $6,700 |
| W3PN0006 | Steel & Gold | 22mm | Diamond Bezel | $12,100 | $10,500 |
| W2PN0007 | Steel & Gold | 27mm | Plain Bezel | $8,750 | $7,500 |
| W3PN0007 | Steel & Gold | 27mm | Diamond Bezel | $13,500 | $11,700 |
| WGPN0016 | Yellow Gold | 21mm | Plain Bezel | $19,600 | $17,000 |
| WGPN0008 | Yellow Gold | 22mm | Plain Bezel | $21,600 | $19,800 |
| WJPN0015 | Yellow Gold | 22mm | Diamond Bezel | $25,800 | $22,000 |
| WGPN0009 | Yellow Gold | 27mm | Plain Bezel | $24,800 | $21,600 |
| WJPN0016 | Yellow Gold | 27mm | Diamond Bezel | $29,900 | $23,000 |
| WJPN0020 | Pink Gold | 21mm | Diamond Bezel | $28,500 | $24,600 |
| WJPN0008 | Pink Gold | 22mm | Diamond Bezel | $25,800 | $22,300 |
| WJPN0009 | Pink Gold | 27mm | Diamond Bezel | $29,900 | $25,500 |
| HPI01325 | White Gold | 21mm | Diamond Bezel & Bracelet | $78,500 | $62,900 |
| HPI01129 | White Gold | 22mm | Diamond Bezel & Bracelet | $89,000 | $76,000 |
| HPI01130 | White Gold | 27mm | Diamond Bezel & Bracelet | $124,000 | $106,000 |
| HPI01096 | White Gold | 27mm | Diamonds & Black Lacquer | $150,000 | $121,000 |
| WJPN0014 | Pink Gold | 22mm | Double Loop Bracelet | $40,600 | $35,000 |
| WGPN0013 | Yellow Gold | 22mm | Double Loop Bracelet | $36,200 | $28,600 |
| WJPN0014 | Pink Gold | 20mm | Diamond Bezel, Triple Loop Bracelet | $40,600 | $40,000 |
| WGPN0018 | Yellow Gold | 22mm | Cuff Bracelet | $43,300 | $37,500 |
The Panthère collection hit the market during the height of the Quartz Crisis, which saw a significant shift from Swiss mechanical watches to those powered by quartz movements.
The collection’s glamorous design, exclusivity, and desirable quartz movement attributed greatly to the Cartier Panthère’s incredible success when it debuted in the 1980s. Today, the collection is still powered by a quartz movement.
Even today, the Cartier Panthère defines the term “jewelry watch” with fashion-forward styling. There are nearly 40 watches currently in production, featuring three case sizes and five metal finishes. Popular newer-models include medium ref. WSPN0007 in stainless steel. Measuring 37mm x 27mm, the watch makes a statement without overtaking the wrist. At $5,000 retail, it’s also very easy on the wallet. Two-tone examples are also trending among many collectors for both their attractive price points and use of gold. Trending references include small model W2PN0006 ($8,000) and medium model W2PN0007 ($8,750).
When it comes to modern fashion, rose gold is still trending. Many sectors of the fashion industry include the lustrous metal within their portfolios, including Cartier. The rose gold Panthère is available with or without diamonds and on either the classic mesh, double loop, triple loop, or bold cuff bracelet. Popular references to consider when shopping for the rose gold Panthère include medium model WGPN0007 ($24,800) and small model WGPN0006 ($21,600).
While the Cartier Panthère officially debuted in the 1980s, it dates to 1914 with Jeanne Toussaint as its muse. The first known example is unlike the collection as we know it today, featuring black feline spots and glittering diamonds to symbolize the collection’s namesake Panther.
The series really started to take shape in 1983 when the company released the first commercial Cartier Panthère to market. Much like the generation that is in production today, early references from the 80s and 90s include 5-link mesh bracelets, square cases with rounded corners, and tall Roman numerals on the dial.
As you might have already come to learn, the Cartier Panthère is an exceptional collection of jewelry watches with fashion-forward styling and close ties to many prominent figures. Today, the Cartier Panthère is available in precious metal, two-tone, and all-gold to match its impressive reputation. Gold options include yellow gold, white gold, and rose gold.
The collection also features diamonds, ranging from diamond-encrusted bezels to more opulent full-diamond references and those adorned with black enamel panther spots. The current generation also includes other materials such as blue sapphires upon the crown, blued-steel hands on the dial, and a protective crystal over the watch face.
The iconic Cartier dial, complete with tall roman numeral hour markers and blued-steel sword-shaped hands that has endured for decades, remains a fixture of the Panthère collection.
There are exceptions, including those decorated with diamonds and the collection’s signature panther motif. The current generation also features the Cartier signature hidden within the Roman numeral “X” at 10 o’clock and a mesmerizing, silvered hue.
The iconic Cartier dial, complete with tall roman numeral hour markers and blued-steel sword-shaped hands that has endured for decades, remains a fixture of the Panthère collection.
There are exceptions, including those decorated with diamonds and the collection’s signature panther motif. The current generation also features the Cartier signature hidden within the Roman numeral “X” at 10 o’clock and a mesmerizing, silvered hue.
When the Cartier Panthère collection hit the market in the 1980s, it featured four case sizes: mini, small, medium, and large. The large case option is no longer available today, perhaps alluding to the fact that the Cartier Panthère is a ladies jewelry watch at heart. The square-shaped case features rounded corners and curved lugs, and crown guards. The fluidity of the case shape lends itself to a more comfortable hold on the wrist. Despite being such as luxurious and elevated timepiece, the Panthère maintains a level of wearability with water-resistance up to 30 meters/100 feet.
Today the series is produced in the following sizes:
While Cartier doesn’t say it outright, the Panthère is remarkably similar in design to the iconic Santos, with its roman numeral dial, square-shaped case, and bezel attached with visible screws. That design ethos endures in the current lineup.
One of the most significant differences between the two is the Panthère bracelet, which features small, polished 5-piece links compared to the large, brushed center links seen on the Santos bracelet.
Variations of the Panthère bracelet include:
